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Tinman's Recent Claim- Discussion and Tinker
(03-20-2024, 07:03 AM)Jim Mac Wrote: ...I certainly do not want to scare anyone away.  I believe the claim is real and am not questioning the legitimacy of it.  As I see it, Tinman has been answering some questions, posting video hints, and leaving us a bread trail...
I agree and we are on the same page with all you wrote. As long as we continue to give credit where credit is due, as you have been doing, we should be good to go.

As far as this magnetic flipping idea. Does this help in anyway or am I way off? The idea is that the disk magnet rotates but the field extending bolt is stationary. If the disk magnet is not uniformly one pole then the field bolt switches polarity based on what part of the disk magnet is under it.

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So u cut washer(ring) magnet in half and get 2 pieces. Then u flip one piece and reconnect with another? And use this ""new ring magnet"" with bolt rotor?"" New ring magnet"" stays int its place and do not rotate , while bolt rotor rotates and its bolts change (flip polarity) depending from position related to ""new ring magnet ""
(03-21-2024, 02:32 AM)gyvulys666 Wrote: So u cut washer(ring) magnet in half and get 2 pieces...
I believe that is what Jim Mac is saying. My only comment on that is that if the ring magnet is ferrite, we shoud be able to flip part of it by just getting a strong neo near the part we want flipped. Instead of cutting it.
Brad's video was made 11 years ago.  But he pointed to this video as a major part of the operation.  Watch closely, notice the magnet is stationary.

Brad's Video

And his big clue-  "But as a bit of a hint, the magnet motor ( i have no name for yet), works by neutralizing the magnetic fields of apposing magnets at a certain point, and then flipping to repulsion mode once the rotor magnets have passed !what we will call! TDC."

So use that video idea and incorporate the polarity flip.

Opposing polarities are unlike poles that attract. Where they usually stick at TDC.  But if TDC is aligned with the blotch wall of the magnet,  TDC gets "Neutralized" as the bolt is aligned with half North and half South.  I predict there will still be some unwanted forces there, but they will be stifled out for the most part. While allowing the attraction and repulsion bolts to dominate.

One thing to keep in mind- these bolts need to be engulfed in a real strong field.  You can test by bringing a repelling magnet close. If you feel a slight repulsion but the magnet still wants to stick to the metal easily, then you need to strengthen the field affecting those bolts.  These bolts need to act like magnets and repel.  

Look at brad's wheel.  Notice the magnet cut out.  He needed some plastic meat to hold the bolt (the rim) but that magnet can get right up there real close to the bolt metal threads.  And there is good reason to believe there is another magnet cut out on the underside to really magnetize those bolts heavily.


There are many thoughts and ideas that will pop into out heads on alternate ways and possible modifications. Some may be valid. But I have to refrain from altering at this junction. Once I see a "self-runner" I am more than willing to explore easier of more effective design changes.

Brad's quote-  "From past experience, people tend to stray from precise instructions given, which results in a failed build.
So this time i have chosen just 1 person to replicate the motor."

For the record, I am working to figure out BRAD's Motor. This is not my invention and I am also not claiming the ideas presented came from my own intuition. All the credit goes to others. And ATM I do NOT have a working motor. 

Brad is also discussing in-depth knowledge and teachings over at OUR, which should be followed and absorbed.
After reading your description, it reminds me of Beletskiy's toy. The principle is similar.
The first thing i would do, is get rid of the bolts, and replace them with magnets, where all the same poles are outward.
Or is it stated that a large ring magnet is used to magnetize the bolts ?

Just a thought.
tinman just posted this link
Tinman talks of flipping the polarity
If you have your magnet very close to your steel bolt at the end of the of the bolt, the other end will be the same pole
If you rotate that bolt away from the magnet it will lose its pole
So if you have a steel bolt attached to a rotor and have your second rotor with all the same polarity magnets the bolt rotor will attract to the magnet rotor
Both rotors will stop when they are closest to each other but if during rotation the bolt at the other end enters a field of the same polarity the bolt will now switch from attraction to repulsion.
The bolts are always in attraction to the magnet rotor but just at the right time have the bolt enter a stationary magnet due to rotation that makes the bolt become the same polarity causing repulsion.
So I built the prototype (kind of)..  And I have a problem at TDC.


I am thinking of 2 ways to deal with this.

1. Either by redesigning the magnet holder so I can adjust the blotch wall alignment away from TDC.

2.  By separating the N and and S magnets so TDC has no magnetic influence. (or barely any)


Here is the crude prototype.  My gears are not sized right here, so it's skewed a bit.

Some new clues have been posted by Tinman over at OUR.  All credits go there.    OUR Thread


Before reading this, I was wondering why it would be necessary to use full speaker magnets to magnetize the whole rotor when only a small portion of the rotor needs to be magnetized at any given time. Magnetizing all the rotor bolts seems to me like a lot of unnecessary added eddy currents. Not to mention it's a PITA.

Also, we now know laminations is not a requirement, although it should help.  But for prototyping, it should have enough strength to easily self run even with eddy's.  So this is good! 

Now I need to redo my design so I can easily swap the magnetic plates to different orientations and configurations without re-printing everything each time.  I have a few ideas I need to try..  

So these are the new bearing stands I am printing.  They hold an 8mm skateboard ceramic bearing and provide a pivoting mounting plate for the magnet holder (to be printed separately).  So now I only have to swap out magnet plates between tests.  


It will take me like all day to print these stands, but I need the versatility for adjustments.

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