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My work towards a magnet motor
#1
To my fellow magnet motor builders and enthusiasts,

Having just experienced a stroke, I’m posting what I have been working on while I still have a chance to do so.

Recently, after Tinman’s claims about having a self running magnet motor, an old acquaintance advised me to use two non-rotating ring magnets for each rotor. Unfortunately that person declined to reveal their method for eliminating the sticky spot at TDC. Later on, I was re-reading the 1842 edition of Davis’ Manual of Magnetism when something jumped off of pages 64-65 at me, so to speak. I believe Daniel Davis may have given us a real solution to that problem.

I have read these pages many times in the past but there it is, right on page 65, how to construct and neutralize the magnetic pole when our motor rotors are at TDC. What Davis terms an armature I will be calling a pole shoe. This first image is an edited screen shot of those 2 pages.

   

The next image is part of the drawings I made for a test build. I was felled at the point of cutting the transformer laminates for the Y-pole shoes and now I’m not sure if I will be able to finish the build.

My design concept uses a stationary center stator which holds 2 ring magnets. The Y shaped pole shoes are 6.35mm or 1/4” thick transformer steel laminates held in a rotating outer housing. These essentially perform as temporary magnets with switchable poles. The steel or iron used needs have the lowest magnetic retention and coercion that you can get. The ring magnets are 2" ID x 3" OD x 1/4" thick neos, magnetized through their thickness. The magnets are cut with an inexpensive 4" diameter diamond cutting disk chucked in a drill press or vertical mill. Cut at a speed of about 600 rpm with a slow feed rate and cooled with a spray bottle of water. For cutting, the magnet was placed on a 2" wide strip of 10 Ga steel held in a vice.

The splits and offsets of the magnets and their effects on the pole shoes are explained in the drawing. Other than that it’s configured as a geared 2 rotor motor much like Tinman’s, without a center steel divider with magnets like he has shown.

   

If you wish to experiment on your own here are some things to consider. Other than cutting magnets, nothing about this has been tested in a model build. The size and exact shape of the pole shoes has not been determined, other than being a Y shape. I haven’t determined if the thin ring magnets with their 2 poles so close together will work or if they need to be thicker in order to move their N and S pole ends farther apart. The width of the one small switching magnet segment has not been optimized for the pole shoe thickness, and neither has the overlap of the ring magnets in the opposite stator.

Best wishes
Cadman
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#2
Thanks Cadman !
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#3
Sending my prayers your way Cadman.   Thank you for sharing this.  Once I finish what I am working on I will probably come back to this. Very intriguing!
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#4
@Cadman Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. I wish you the best as well. Always frustrating to hear of the many that keep such info only for it to hopefully be rediscovered 100's of years later.

I'll be looking into the details of your setup soon but the old page you posted reminded me of the Wesley Gary patent I came across just the other night. It also speaks of how if the north and south are equal in intensity, they will cancel out to zero. Reminded me of TinMan's build where he is using the attraction of the steel and the saturation repulsion of the steel to create the neutral canceling out effect as well.

I don't mean to distract from your setup but post this only because it may be related. Here is Robert Murray explaining the Wesley Gary neutral line effect.
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#5
@Cadman
that olde manuscript is interesting. But it is not accurate.

"if both branches of the fork, be applied, one to each pole of the magnet, as shown by the dotted lines in the cut, the polarity of the lower end immediately disappears."

No it dont disappear, it never had a Pole in the first place.

The first paragraph describes how SHAPED Iron touching one pole of a magnet will exhibit Nodes and can be thought of as a chain sprocket for a washer like plate. Two of these could inter mesh. I wrote of this earlier but the idea hasnt sunk in yet. There are no eddy currents with these nodes/Fields.

The third paragraph shows us the Neutral Plate effect between 2 ring magnets and a mild iron washer. With the added same pole on the other of the Y which is sorta like a Neutral Plate between 2 same Poles and its also noted that the Gauss or lifting ability is increases several fold. Its explained here
https://rumble.com/v4odo38-joe-may-2010-magnetic.html

We take this further by "focusing" the two same pole Fields, using the washer as a Magnifying lens to make the 2 vortex Fields come to a Point. This is 'easiest' done with Ring magnets as the Pole faces, being ideal for the Vortex Field to emanate from uniformly and able to be Unified and focused by the Washer 'lens' acting on a groove in the pipe if thats the chosen inner point of focus. Implying there are other ways.

The 'faces' of the horse shoe magnet are flat and rectangular and the Fields emanating from them do not look like the Fields emanating from say the North Pole of Earth. This does not make for a unified field effect. One wants ALL the Lines of iron filings to be 'directed' through the Washer or Neutral plate.

What is also not known, is that if one takes 2 ferrite ring magnets and a mild steel washer and places the washer between the 2 North Poles and leaves them there for a few days, that the washer will not "rust" even if placed in water. Stainless iron.

What is the difference between the Y shaped iron piece and the Horse shoe magnet? One has been inside a Coil. Coils are literal magic. A long time ago it was a coil that allowed you to see the Light.
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#6
Hope your doing OK Cadman..

Today I played with magnets a bit, and I keep hitting the same stumbling block when I built something similar with bolts over a magnet.

What I noticed is a tradeoff.  Yes we can eliminate the gate of 2 metal pieces passing, BUT in doing so, we transferred that gate to where the bolt (or metal) hits the magnet divide.

Observe:



I repeated this with and without an airgap, and the new sticky spot appears every way I have tried.

Does that book you reference propose a way to beat this ill-fated side effect?
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