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Tesla Designed Rotating Field motors.
#1
This is the Thread for questions regarding the smart Drive motors.
It is important to remember that there are 2 types of 'over unity'.
First type, and this is the type all are trying to build in the OU community where they want 'more' out then they put in.
Second type is where one tries to duplicate Tesla's Scalar or radiant Energies.
This second type NO ONE here has ever even tried to make as its 'nature' and production and all info about it has been deleted from the public domain for the last 100 years.  It is this 'Aetheric' energy or scalar non hertzian that this thread is seeking. This is a quantum leap in understanding and production. This is the energy that will take one to the stars or make med beds.

I want to point out again the importance of throwing away the multi meter, the Oscilloscope and the AC power supply as seen in other threads.
Using these 3 'electrical' sources, one is placing 3 Frequencies into the circuit and expecting More of something out the end from 3 inputs. The conflict is the reason for failure. Read that again Jim. It has to be pointed out at some point in this thread.

Attached are pictures of 3 motors. The LG is good to go, while the other 2 are built to NOT give the Second type of over unity.
If you want to play with energy that hasnt been generated for over 120 years, one needs to procure the correct designed motor as found in the LG.
To identify the correct washing machine to buy from the scrap dealer or off ebay or similar, look in the stainless steel Tub and it has the 3 'spokes' effect in the bottom of the SS Tub that corresponds to the frame work of the smart drive motor. You then will know which one to buy from this picture without having to dismantle the machine first. Keep the Motor intact. Mark the splines and the shaft  and frame so after taking apart it can be put together again exactly how it was built from the factory. It will be TIMED according to manufactures specs.
The drain pump motors also will make a Type one over unity electricity. We will deal with these motors in another thread and the over unity of standard 'electricity'.

so our first step is getting the right washing machine

Pics of motors. LG good... Samsung and Fisher Paykel bad


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#2
Kool- glad we are getting into the nitty gritty..  Don't worry, I can take a goof jab here and there- it's all in the name of progression!

Can you do me a favor?  I see the stator has 36 coils, and 12 magnets, but I suspect those magnets have either 3 or 4 individual magnets in 1. 

I am assuming each of the 12 magnets has 4 individual magnets, giving us 48 magnets to 36 poles, which is 3 magnets to 4 coils which makes the 3 phase.  

So this combo seems to have the same magnet alignment as the fisher and paykel of 36/48. 

Or am I looking at the wrong motor?  I see the tub you speak of, but am not exactly sure which motor came off that tub.

I am not casting doubts here that the F&P is bad, and I will be reading your posts, but for documentation and understanding the reactions that you are about to propose, these details will help me understand as you progress.

Thanks and keep it coming..
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#3
"which motor came off that tub."

in the title of each picture it gives the make.

I tried to make it 2 posts so the LG pics were on the first post but it combined them all into one post.

Do you not see that the multi meter has a battery and the electrodes are then Vibrating? Same for the O'scope.
you are adding 'electricity' to a circuit you are trying to get 'electricity' out of and you think this has no bearing on the outcome?
A 'resistor' is not a Load... a load is a motor or a light. I offer the outcome of this interference basically states you really have gained nothing. Or another way of saying it... a multimeter as proof of gain is not proof at all when adding another battery to the circuit.

The LG has 36 coils to 12 magnets
The FP has 36 coils to 48 magnets
The Samsung has 18 coils to 12 magnets.

There is more to it than the ratios, Its the material construction for the Field Effect.
Over Unity is best achieved when the 'contraption' exhibits the Infinity Loop.
This was explained to me (again) in a 12 solid hour 'lecture' last Saturday.
In the JoeCell TubeCell, (the classic Tube JoeCell) there is an INFINITE number of Infinity loops.
In the LG we only need 'one' of the several it can 'make'. An Infinity Loop has an Opposite and equal 'flow' to make the figure 8 'electrically'.
Each of the 3 separate coil windings is a rotating Magnetic Field making the Motor 3 motors in one all interacting with the permanent magnets in the Rotor.
This is difficult to explain with just words and at this time is not necessary.
What is necessary is to acquire the correct motor and disassemble as per pics.

In the 'stator' with 36 coils, I show the inputs for the motor and sort of hidden is the output terminals when the contraption is generating. The three separate coil winding circuits are bridged off so it CANT generate as there is no where for the vibrations to go. Even in a standard 3 phase industrial motor, the windings are Bridged or terminated all together. No one ever thinks to unbridge them and connect them to another motor, making this 'motor' also a generator and if the shaft of the motor is made 'magnetic' it satisfies the 2 Rotating magnetic Fields and the infinity loops requirements. These are things to ponder upon. Over unity devices ready to adapt for those with eyes to see are in nearly every motor ever built. Tesla took this IP to his grave.
This is NOT standard 'electricity' we are trying to create in this thread. from the moment the LG motor arrives on the doorstep, NEVER pick up another multimeter of Oscope again if you want success with this Build. Having a 12V car battery for 'ballast' tho is the way to go.

the link isnt the best, but this is what has already done.
https://t.me/downtherabbitholewegofolks/91385
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#4
Ok I will respect your thread where you may present your data in your own manner. I will keep my views in my threads and not interrupt yours. But I may ask for clarity in parts, like which stator is which, etc.

Just keep in mind, the titles of images do not show on the forum, so viewers can not tell which motor is which.
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#5
Jim
The more we interact the more we learn.
I must leave out 'things' so important questions can be asked.
My view of you is that you have been educated too far in the other direction and have the 'sense' to know it.
It is a rare human that thinks for themselves. the vast majority simply do not think or see the 'issue'. They must be 'told'. We used to call it common sense but its not common much these days.
These are original thoughts never before given a wider audience. From what I read on your threads makes me want to jump in and give you some point you are over looking like them extra Vibrations you add to your circuit. It would be better for all if I can re-educate you on this thread rather than yours. There is so much you have to unlearn or relearn. This methodology requires a different Mindset. If we succeed, we will have the black box to install in a drone as per that short Tesla re-enactment.
Could it be that the motor in Musks ripoff is similar to the LG? Anyone have any experience with his 'motor' and drive chain? Joe reckons he uses one terminal batteries.
I prefer to reply to questions rather than dump priceless but useless info that wont be acted upon.
The attached pics are all LG Inverter drive.


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#6
How are the coils wired from the factory?
Also the motor I had has 24 magnets and 36 poles
Mine was wired every 3 rd pole in series
So 12 poles per phase
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#7
(01-24-2024, 01:14 AM)MerLynn Wrote: Jim

 It would be better for all if I can re-educate you on this thread rather than yours. There is so much you have to unlearn or relearn. 

Well that ain't gonna happen.  You got the wrong guy.  

I am open minded enough to read what you present but I will always maintain my point of view and always follow the road my logic leads me.

I have been working and posting on using Polyphase to create the loop well before this site opened, before even hearing of Joe.  I have no plans to stop in my path of sharing what I discover.

There will always be (and already is) disagreements in how we understand the actions.  But I agreed to allow your thread be your thread and not contaminate it.  I will keep my views to my threads, and only ask for clarification here on what you post when needed.

But don't let this stop you from presenting your stuff.  Your presentation may lead me and others to see some errors in our logic.  

Now if you come forth and actually show a fully functioning overunity machine working, I just may become that full-on student. But anything shy of that- I stay on my own path. 

I do thank you for sharing
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#8
I am grateful for the information in this thread. I am not sure I can acquire such motor where I live, but I still want know info about its principle and operation. I hope this thread (and also others on this website) will continue.

Andy
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#9
Hi folks,

I'm looking to pick up a direct drive washing machine motor to play around with.

Is this one any good? It's an LG Direct Drive rotor and stator.

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Thanks,

Lee
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#10
Lee...

"To identify the correct washing machine to buy from the scrap dealer or off ebay or similar, look in the stainless steel Tub and it has the 3 'spokes' effect in the bottom of the SS Tub that corresponds to the frame work of the smart drive motor. You then will know which one to buy from this picture without having to dismantle the machine first. Keep the Motor intact. Mark the splines and the shaft and frame so after taking apart it can be put together again exactly how it was built from the factory. It will be TIMED according to manufactures specs"

If you buy just the rotor and stator you have no shaft for the rotor to turn on. They make these splines unlike anything else in the world just so you cant use these parts except with great difficulty. They 'recycle' white goods so you cant have scrap parts to play with.

You NEED to source the entire washing machine off craigslist or ebay or similar, Dismantle the washing machine like the pictures supplied...
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